Ultimate Jack Plate Poll

[JESTERxHEAD]

What kind of jackplate do you have?

How far is the setback?

Hydraulic or manual?

Do you like it?

What would you rather have if you dont like the one you have now?

[genxer36]

Manual, I don't think it has a name. It may be OEM.

[fats95]

slidemaster, manual, never had a chance to do anything with it, still at factory setting. has a good hole shot and top end.

[remington]

If I went with one it would be a Rapid Jack.

[kipp]

T&H 6 in...2n3/4 below.. That hull... TR 186..cant do much else
Hydraulic would be ok....(have to pay to much attention to me on little motors. 150's)

[genxer36]

I left mine like it came. Has good hole shot. My boat doesn't chine walk. I think the setting is spot on. Don't want to mess it up.

[Aussie]

I have the Slidemaster manual..(came with the boat)

With a 6inch setback and i have played with it until i got it to were it was performing best with good water pressure...(it took alot of trail and error)

I have both good holeshot and topend and water pressure at it's current setting with the prop i'm running....

[ChampioNman]

9" Rapid Jack by Hydro-Dynamics.

[lilmule]

Bobs 10 in hydraulic,should it ever need work no need to take off the boat as all separate motor,plate etc.Have had others go bad and had to disassemble to do any work on them,a bobs is made right and so one can replace something without taking it off.
Has been on a 22 ft jaguar-200 omc,but currently is on my 1990 2002 allison,with a johnson 140 x flow.
8000 lb lift strength top to bottom in less than 8 sec
If i had to replace it, say I got another boat it would be a bobs jackplate and hydraulic.

[JESTERxHEAD]

I agree with ya on the bobs machine jackplate when it comes to replacing parts you dont have to tear down the whole thing....but the design could be alot better IMHO.

a single plate riding on ways up and down...and the higher you go the less engagement the plate has......scary stuff to me!.....

[lilmule]

Its like inside a rail,and has a built in stop always 1/3 or more supported by the full plate plus the rails,with an 8000 lb lift strength id say the rails and plate are quite satisfactory.
Under an 8000 lb test most full plates would fail it does not.12 month warranty on wiring and solenoid ,36 months on jackplate itself,solid aircraft grade alum,and not thin.
Whats scary is a lil two piece made out of alum that resembles pot metal.
My two year old plate is still under warranty,have changed it from one boat to another and only once had to add oil,uses standard 20 wt.
Off the boat but with wiring connected could lift both my truck and boat at the same time,if one had a way of loading them.
Nothing comparative in the boating world closest thing to it is an otis elevator and it uses gears and pullies,bobs is a single piston design while seemingly simple quite adequate.
You could not give me another jackplate with the hydraulic motor inside the jp,no room to work on anything and has to come off when it fails and they fail in less time than this ones been on mine.
They cost a fair penny,but are worth every one-every other hyd jp out there is junk ment to be replaced about every two years if it lasts that long.
Ive also ran manual plates a rite hite is soildly built,as well as the lil 4 in allison I just sold.

[JESTERxHEAD]

Yea its inside a rail....but the higher you go the weaker the jp is....that is the flaw. it looses strength on the way up.... as the overall design to lift something that has a lateral thrust...it just scares me thats all.....btw...they are not 1/3 less weight cause they are stronger....they removed material somewhere....

[lilmule]

The 1/3 was where the stop is at not less weight ,they weigh more generally,about 60 for the plate and 12 for the seperate motor oil tank and solenoid pkg.
If it were weaker could not lift 8000 pds,there is nothing weak about it.Try heavy weight like that on most brands seals would bust or motor burn up,or just plain couildnt lift it.
As for how far it goes up that stop prevents it from going to far,and is also solid alum.
It is because it jacks higher than other plates,1 1/2 built in and 6 in of lift,that it looks like its higher above it is,and solid as a rock.
Yes its weaker at the top but if it has that lift strength that is rated at its weakest point not its strongest.The thrust an outboard puts out is tremendous and any outboard motor made it can lift at full throttle,top to bottom in less than 8 sec.
The one plate one piston preconception of weak does not apply.
I have a dislike for having to replace motors in land an sea and the seals and electronics in detweilers,and tired of having to pull the things off to do so,so became a bobs fan.
The pros and cons of a bobs are the same thing,remote motor tank electronics,not how strong it is.There is no stronger built jackplate.No faster one either.
If however bobs made one with the motor and plate together id trust it as dont think anything would go wrong in the entire time I owned the boat,say 5-7 years.
I cannot say that for other brands of hydraulic jack plates.
While another plate may look stronger is it the sum total (plate,motor,hoses,electronics)of it all in combination as to strength,and if so why dont they post their lift strength.

[JESTERxHEAD]

dude....Look at their website...they advertise it being 1/3 less weight than ANY OTHER JACKPLATE....they are not using moon rocks to build them.

I am not looking at the hydraulic system on te jp.... I am looking at the OVERALL DESIGN like my last post.

You say its the strongest one out there.... the design says diffrent, is it because you have had good luck the the ONE you have or do you get paid by them?

The only way to actually prove one being stonger than the other is to actually test them to destruction in a lab against other jack plates in a controlled enviroment.

Not knowing what you do for a living, not wanting to insult intellegence but I am a mechanical engineer.... I design devices that have to hold, manipulate and exert force. Maybe knowing better makes me leary, I just wont own one....its just me...

Also in their defense it "may" be a perfectly good jackplate in normal use....but striking a stump or whatever happens they need to be slightly "over engineered" to survive a strike of thousands of lbs of force....I do not want that outboard in my lap. lighter and faster does not always mean better and stronger....

I know this is going nowhere....I was just stating a design flaw....nothing against BMS.

[lilmule]

Well my own estimate was based on the shipping weight,not any claim they are lighter,they do however make a light version mine is not,and no not paid by them.
If you feel like it isnt buy one of each and destroy them you find out it isnt the first one to pop,doubt if any including bobs would agree to supply them for that kind of test
I do however feel their should be straight across the board measurements for standards and a comparitive test like you suggest again doubt if they would line up any of them.
The only tests one views is from the sellers tests in a lab.
That said I love my bobs but paid a small fortune for it,find something that does it all and better and cheaper and I will switch brands,But I kinda doubt it.
Im retired as a building mechanic we did the work building engineers couldnt figgure out,no pun intended.
Some things look good on paper but paper only and some things shouldnt work but do,like a bumblebee it cannot fly,math and engineers say its impossible to short a wingspan tell that to the bumblebee.
To you it has design flaws to me was the best I thought I could buy.if I struck a stump my steel reinfoced transom most likly would hold up as well as the bobs my lower would most likly be gone prior to either failing,nothing I desire to test just my thoughts.

[JESTERxHEAD]

:wallbash::wallbash:

I guess that's the difference between you and me.....

you win.

[lilmule]

Thought it was about what we each preferred as in a poll not winning,each being the key word as not everyone thinks alike,or has the same views.
I will keep an open mind as to what others think about other brands,and would love to see reviews.

[Aussie]

Would'nt all j/p builder's go through some sort of test before they are allowed to sell them to the public..????

There would have to be some sort of stringent test on design,otherwise any
"jo blow" could make up something(unsafe) and sell it to the masses..???

Man...i hope there is..!!!!!!

[JESTERxHEAD]

aussie....absolutely....but nothing is perfect in the manufacturing world.... every jackplate works as designed and built....but each has to be slightly different to be different and not infringe on patents and such..... but those differences can lead to slight weaknesses....or strengths.

but yes they do rigorous testing and they post their load limit on the spec sheet and rate it accordingly for hp and such..... the safety factor they use is generally not disclosed.

[Aussie]

aussie....absolutely....but nothing is perfect in the manufacturing world.... every jackplate works as designed and built....but each has to be slightly different to be different and not infringe on patents and such..... but those differences can lead to slight weaknesses....or strengths.

but yes they do rigorous testing and they post their load limit on the spec sheet and rate it accordingly for hp and such..... the safety factor they use is generally not disclosed.
Thank's Bud..!!!!:cheers:

I certainly dont want my outboard on my lap..!!!..lol

[clm6741]

8" atlas hydraulic with digital gauge.

[copper]

My Phoenix came with a Pro HiHacker, Z-Lock. Manual

[Nichor02]

Don't use one. Don't see getting one anytime soon either. I like it just like it is.

[jkk]

This a hell of a good post ....great debating You Go lilmule!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

OK heres my question what setback should I use and whats better Man. or Hyd. It's going on my 91 Stratos 201 200 xp with a 27 pitch 4 blade shooter

[Big Skeet™]

12" (stock model for Skeeter ZX) manual j/p, took me 8 -10 adjustments to finally get it perfect for my needs. I took a few mph off top speed but she is perfect now for above average chop on these northern waters.

[lilmule]

Hmm didnt see the ?
If you look the stats up for a stratos 201 most are with a 6 in,must be what they sell them with,others have 8 and 10 in.Manual is set one place for optimal running and handling generally lower than one for say a speed run,hyd permits the variation of where the prop is in relation to pad and varying conditions,also has much more driver input and costs 4-5 times as much as a manual,most do well with a manual and set for overall preformance.
Hope that shooter is drilled,still wont be quick getting up,and slip factor wont be quite as good,however for the money spent they run great if reworked, within about 1.5 mph of a 400 plus prop.
Think its really up to each individual how they finally end up as in setup,as others usage is but a guideline as each person had a possible different end result in mind and the wallet also effects.
As for resale a manual gets more of ones money back,a used hyd people want to buy for what a manual costs.I run one for the simple reason was on another boat removed prior to selling the boat,have it no one desired to buy it at a reasonable cost so currently using it on another boat.Initial cost for a hyd of say 8 to 12 in is 1000-1200 for any good brand,used you get offers of 500 delivered for one looking like new still under warranty.
There ya have it pros and cons,that said I love being able to raise and lower my motor at will,yet wouldnt own one due to cost,If i hadnt already gotten one in the past,as on a budget,I buy my eq when I sell something else,like a boat or motor so not out of pocket so to speak.
Speaking of which Ive got a 27 p tro 4 that would run good on your boat.

[Eesctom]

Going to go back to basics here for a second and ask what I would need a jackplate for. The overall concept as I understand it is that the trim brings the motor up and down but at an angle (along an arc I guess). The jackplate would move it vertical up and down. On a Z7 with just a 150 hp would a jackplate really amke any difference in handling or top speed or is it mostly designed for the 200hp + boats where you are really hauling @ss? I was just always curious about who needs them and what they do.

[JESTERxHEAD]

eesctom.....


YES THEY DO!!!

Others here will help me out on this one...

jackplates serve to major features:

1. Engine Height
2. Engine setback.


1. Engine Height- adjusted up and down to get the "sweet spot" to get max handling, speed and holeshot out of the boat, gets the nosecone out of the water thus making the boat handle better and ultimately faster/more efficent.

2. Setback - allows the prop to get "cleaner water" the farther the setback the better that water is. Also more setback gives the motor more leverage to get the bow up. one draw back to too much setback is holeshot suffers a small bit.

There is really no down side IMHO to jackplates besides cost.

hope this helps and hope that someone adds to this

[Eesctom]

If I'm only runing 50-60 mph is it worth the investment or is it something more geared towards someone who is trying to achieve max speed?

[JESTERxHEAD]

more speed is just a side effect.... the boat will act sportier, turn better, etc...

jackplates go with bass boats like fat kids and candy....

[Eesctom]

more speed is just a side effect.... the boat will act sportier, turn better, etc...

jackplates go with bass boats like fat kids and candy....


Can't you just tell me that I don't need it and it will do me no good? Everytime I log on here I keep finding somthing else to spend my money on:D.

[JESTERxHEAD]

hahahahaha....sorry....

but if you do buy a hydraulic one..... but manual will serve you fine too....

[Madbasser]

OK, so are there really NO drawbacks? How about the set back? Yes it does give the motor more leverage to push the nose up, but doesn't that also put a ton more pressure on the transom than if it was bolted straight on? Have there been any issues were there was so much leverage that the transom gave way, or was damaged over time? Transoms are not build bullet proof right?

All serious questions, i'm very green to this and was just wondering.

It seems like even the smallest of things have a drawback, and if there could be potential transom issues over time you can have your 1-2 mph, and ill take my boats reliability and longevity. This might also deter me from buy a boat with one installed already also.

[Big Skeet™]

OK, so are there really NO drawbacks? How about the set back? Yes it does give the motor more leverage to push the nose up, but doesn't that also put a ton more pressure on the transom than if it was bolted straight on? Have there been any issues were there was so much leverage that the transom gave way, or was damaged over time? Transoms are not build bullet proof right?

All serious questions, i'm very green to this and was just wondering.

It seems like even the smallest of things have a drawback, and if there could be potential transom issues over time you can have your 1-2 mph, and ill take my boats reliability and longevity. This might also deter me from buy a boat with one installed already also.

I own a 2000 SkeeterZX that came stock with a 12-14 inch jackplate, no issues with my transom and I am up north and fish a few big water systems that get darn rough to the point where the coast guard will shut them down..............ultimately, the make of the bass boat can heavily affect your question.

[kipp]

Oh yes they are drawbacks ....big ones, like any plate mod..
Keep one eye on the water pressure gauge till you learn it well..especially hydraulic
You can smoke a motor playing around early on..
Great mod for sure though...

[bulleteer]

Rite now I'm running a 14" Magnum Rapid Jack. Motor hite is 1-1/2 above pad for fishin and 1-3/4 to 2" above for speed runs. Going to hydraulic when I get a chance.

Gary

[JESTERxHEAD]

Rite now I'm running a 14" Magnum Rapid Jack. Motor hite is 1-1/2 above pad for fishin and 1-3/4 to 2" above for speed runs. Going to hydraulic when I get a chance.

Gary


man o man.... she's got to run. What's your speed numbers with that setup?

[Eesctom]

If you add a jackplate does it affect the balance of the boat on your trailer since the weight is moved further back?

[JESTERxHEAD]

Yes............but it may not be noticeable

[Ramrods]

Atlas 8" Hyd. Have no complaints

[mwhelm]

I'm not FAT, just big boned..... Sorry I had to Jester. hehehe I recently decided to punish myself by installing a CMC 6" set back manual jack plate for my 1991 Stratos 201 Pro XL.(pics are in Fiberglass Resto section under 2 yrs of life heading) I have been fighting the setup for weeks, but I now have it dialed in. Perfect roost, hops on plane faster, and rides really nice. I just need MORE POWER, but that will be fixed this winter. Also since I have an Evinrude 200 XP the water intake is in the center of lower unit. Its not working out to well. Only 5-7 psi on H2O pressure, I have 30+psi when on dyno. So I have to install Bob's Bigfoot, Talked to Bob's and it sounds like I need to do the Race style because of the placement of intake holes(on the bottom of nose cone). Still haven't decided if I want to do the install, or have Bob's do it. Also recomend you mark each time you play with plate (manual or hydro). In the end I feel it's worth atleast the $275.00 investment on a manual plate. I'm still not ready for the Hydro plate, to me that's too much $$$.:D

[xskeetshooter]

I HAVE A MANUAL ON 2005 ranger z20
what is the best offset for this boat?
i will be changing to hyd soon.
i been in this boat just a few months and already see the need to be hyd.
when water is low props will get dinged.
to those who might be interested i will be selling my manual.
its perfect cond.
came with the boat.

[derick881]

I have a 6" CMC on my 519VS Ranger w/225 Optimax. Still working fine after 12 years. The only thing is had to replace the nylon side washers for the third time.
I'm repowering with a 2012 Pro XS and thinking about a new jp. I like the looks of the Atlas in 8". Looking for feedback on their quality and design.

I see our survey shows CMC by 2:1 over Bobs and Atlas but all the comments here are about Bobs. Is that because someone almost got killed when one came apart?

[Jay Martin]

CMC is a great plate with a better price than most. I run a T-H Marine 6 inch with Detwiler 4 inch spacer. The plate is built almost like the CMC, as a matter of fact it has the CMC pump in it. I just installed a Bob's lift plate guage, no it's not designed for it but I made it work.
My next plate will be a Bob's, whenever that will be....

[Allyda]

I'm kind of embarrassed. This shows Y'all how long it's been since I had my last boat (17 ft Glastron), and how long I've been out of things before getting my Shadow.

Here's a photo of my boat's rear end and motor mounted as it is now. My question/s are;

What is a Jackplate?
Does my boat have one?
And if you can tell by the not so great angle of the photo, if my boat has one is it hydraulic or manual?

I won't ask what kind it is (if I have one) because I know the photo angle doesn't clearly show how the motor is bolted on.

Thanks
Allyda

[Jay Martin]

Yes sir thats a jackplate, brand?, I can't tell....Does look like a manual...A jackplate is used to rebalance the boat for better performance and to get more of the motor out of the water to also increase performance.

[miller23]

I'm looking at a Phoenix 618 with a 150 Merc. It comes with an 8" T-H Jack Plate. I'm assuming it's manual because I can't find anything that says it's hydraulic. How do you adjust it? Where is a good starting place? And once I get it in the water the first time, how will i know if it does need to be adjusted? And once I get some feedback I'm sure I will have a dozen more questions for yall! Lol. Thanks

[Jay Martin]

Most manuals normally have bolts on the sides that you loosen up first, then there is a large bolt that runs up the middle inside the plate, turn it one way to go up and the way to go down, once done tighten the bolts back up on the sides.

About 3 inch below pad is a good starting point, test run and record GPS speed and rpm, increase height 1/4 inch at a time until one of two things happen, either water pressure starts too drop or you have reached the motors redline.

[Allyda]

Thanks Jay for the info. Glad I have this option if it's needed.:cheers:

[miller23]

Thanks Jay! What water pressure is too low?

[Jay Martin]

First of all what motor do you have?

Does the boat have a water pressure guage?

[miller23]

Well hopefully it'll be that Phoenix 618 w/ 150 Mercury Pro XS and yes it does have a water pressure gauge on it.

[Jay Martin]

Sorry, you did say Merc 150 didn't you?? Water pressure needs to stay at least 15 lbs, no lower... the higher you take the motor you will see a drop in water pressure, don't let this scare you, your motor will not let itself be damaged due to low water pressure....+


Was just looking at the specs on the 618, you should need a 24 pitch prop in a 3 blade, if getting a 4 blade then you will need 23 pitch. When set up properly 63-65 mph should be the max speed.

[miller23]

And the water pressure is the water that's coming into the motor to cool it right?

[Jay Martin]

And the water pressure is the water that's coming into the motor to cool it right?

That is correct, there will be a line (tubbing) connected to the head of the block that runs back to the guage.

[miller23]

Gotcha. Thank you very much for your help!

[Jay Martin]

Your Welcome!! Hope it helps....

[miller23]

Ok so I got the Phoenix 618. It came with a 23 pitch 3 blade prop. The jack plate is supposedly set to "factory recommendations". My concern is that when I'm running a little over 40mph @ just about 4500rpms my water pressure is at 7.5...is that right?

[Jay Martin]

Ok so I got the Phoenix 618. It came with a 23 pitch 3 blade prop. The jack plate is supposedly set to "factory recommendations". My concern is that when I'm running a little over 40mph @ just about 4500rpms my water pressure is at 7.5...is that right?

No! Water pressure needs to be closer to 15 psi.

[Allyda]

Ok, I took a good look at my jackplate and it ia a Bob's Machine shop. My boat as y'all know is an 86 21ft Shadow VTunnel hull. My boat's transom is like new in shape and rated for 235 HP. The prop is a 13 & 1/4 27 pitch 4 blade Shooter & motor is a 200 XP Rude.

On the Bobs Machine shop website I could only find a manual jackplate with an 8 in. setback that resembles the one I have. However, my motor is set back more than 8 inches, My tape measure says 12 in but due to my inexperience I could be measuring it wrong. However visibly you can see my motor is set back more than 8 in.

Here's my question: Did Bob's make plates in the past that were set back more than 8 inches?
And if so, were there problems with them?
I ask because I can see that the adjustment (up & down) bolts on each side are slightly bent (bowed) from the thrust of the motor. I know this could have been caused by the previous owner running it hard with the bolts on the side loose while setting it up. But what if they were tight and this is from engine thrust? If this is so, should I get a new plate?

I know these are a lot of questions and I apologize for my ignorance I just want to know my boat is safe and dependable to run as I'll be fishing a lone a lot. :wallbash::drunk:

[Jay Martin]

Ok, I took a good look at my jackplate and it ia a Bob's Machine shop. My boat as y'all know is an 86 21ft Shadow VTunnel hull. My boat's transom is like new in shape and rated for 235 HP. The prop is a 13 & 1/4 27 pitch 4 blade Shooter & motor is a 200 XP Rude.

On the Bobs Machine shop website I could only find a manual jackplate with an 8 in. setback that resembles the one I have. However, my motor is set back more than 8 inches, My tape measure says 12 in but due to my inexperience I could be measuring it wrong. However visibly you can see my motor is set back more than 8 in.

Here's my question: Did Bob's make plates in the past that were set back more than 8 inches?
And if so, were there problems with them?
I ask because I can see that the adjustment (up & down) bolts on each side are slightly bent (bowed) from the thrust of the motor. I know this could have been caused by the previous owner running it hard with the bolts on the side loose while setting it up. But what if they were tight and this is from engine thrust? If this is so, should I get a new plate?

I know these are a lot of questions and I apologize for my ignorance I just want to know my boat is safe and dependable to run as I'll be fishing a lone a lot. :wallbash::drunk:

If it's a two piece plate, ditch it..those things are dangerous. Not sure about the Bobs plate question...Try calling Bobs tech department.

[Allyda]

If it's a two piece plate, ditch it..those things are dangerous. Not sure about the Bobs plate question...Try calling Bobs tech department.
Yep, it's a two piece judging by the photo's on the Bob's Webpage. I'll make sure everything's tight and stay off the throttle until I can get a new one. For my boat, which do you recommend (manual, can't afford hyd.)?

I'll be off of the water for a bit while polishing and replacing carpet anyway.

[Jay Martin]

For the money, CMC makes a great proven manual plate, the price go's up from there. Check ebay, they have about the best prices I've found.