Dealing With Fires

Aussie

BBM Personel Director
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May 11, 2009
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Australia
#1
<TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=650 align=center><TBODY><TR><TD class=header height=40 vAlign=top>Dealing With Fires</TD></TR><TR><TD vAlign=top width=680>Using the Wrong Type of Extinguisher to Fight a Fire
is Like Trying to Dig a Hole With a Rake . . . Fire Extinguishers













</TD></TR><TR><TD class=maintext colSpan=3 padding="5"><TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=650><TBODY><TR><TD vAlign=top align=left>The Boat U.S. Foundation for Boating Safety tests of fire extinguishers confirmed that Coast Guard minimum requirements are exactly that: the absolute minimum. For fire extinguishers, they are barely adequate. (For USCG fire extinguisher requirements, see the chart at the bottom of this page.)

Carrying only the required minimum is literally "playing with fire." The tests, using a simulated galley fire, revealed that a 2.5-lb. extinguisher in the hands of an inexperienced user lacked the capacity to extinguish the fire-no surprise when you consider that the average discharge time for a 2.5-lb. canister is nine to ten seconds. The National Fire Protection Association (NFPA) has issued extinguisher recommendations that go beyond the Coast Guard's minimum requirements. Not only the number, but the location of your extinguishers is critical-if you can't get to an extinguisher when you need it, it's worthless. You shouldn't have to travel more than half the length of the boat to reach it.

If that's not practical, an alternative is to step up to the next larger extinguisher size. Spend the few extra dollars for a tri-class (ABC) extinguisher instead of settling for the less expensive BC unit. Consider a BC unit for the engine room: it leaves less residue on electrical equipment and machinery, and it costs slightly less. What's the worry?

You might not think you need to worry too much about fire on a boat. After all, you are literally surrounded by water. But fire is a very real threat, not only to your boat, but to you and your passengers. Today's fiberglass/composite boats burn very quickly, and produce large volumes of toxic smoke that is equally as dangerous. Below are a few tips on fire safety
from, along with a few claims reports from BoatU.S. Insurance that highlight how quickly events can get out of hand. Knowing what to expect, and what to do are critical if you expect to effectively fight a fire. Each year you need to ensure that your fire extinguishers are in proper working order, and that everyone who boards the boat knows where they are.









</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE><TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=650 align=center><TBODY><TR><TD>Fire Classifications

The Fundamentals: Learning Your ABCs of Fire Classification

Not all fires should be treated alike. The source and location of a fire will determine which extinguishing agent
should be used for maximum effect. Many people learn at home, for example, that throwing water on a stove-top
grease fire (Class B) will cause a violent spattering reaction and spread the burning grease elsewhere. Matching
the agent to the fire begins with an understanding of how fires are classified:

  • Class A fires consist of all combustible solid materials, such as paper, wood, cloth, rubber, and many
    plastics including the fiberglass reinforced plastic used for decks and hulls.
  • Class B fires consist of all flammable liquids, including stove alcohol, grease, gasoline, diesel, kerosene,
    oil, oil based paint, teak oil, paint thinners, acetone, varnishes, and flammable gases or fumes.
  • Class C fires consist of energized electrical equipment. Class C fires are identified for their potential to
    electrocute or shock personnel if conducting water-base extinguishing agents are applied. Turning
    off the electricity will change the status of a Class C fire to a Class A and/or B fire.
  • Note that Class A, B, and C categories are not subdivided any further, so it may be easier to think of
    them as (A) solids, (B) liquids, and (C) electrical fires; there's no need, for example, to waste time
    distinguishing between alcohol or kerosene when your stove's on fire.
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All fire extinguishers are rated according to the extinguishing agent's effectiveness in controlling one or more classes of fire. For example, ABC-rated extinguishers, commonly called multi-purpose or tri-class extinguishers, are capable of fighting all three classes of fire. Numbers preceding the letters (on portable units only) indicate an agent's relative effectiveness in extinguishing that particular class of fire. For instance, a 10 BC dry chemical extinguisher is twice as effective in putting out a fire as a 5 BC unit. Multi-purpose 1A-10 BC dry chemical extinguishers are becoming more popular as an alternative to the common 10 BC extinguishers because of the additional Class A rating, especially since the additional cost is minimal (less than $5).

In general, dry chemical extinguishers, which use a chemical powder to smoother the source of the fire, are the favored choice in the boat's cabin. Not only is a dry chemical extinguisher more effective, it is easier for an inexperienced user to direct the discharge plume to the base of the flame from a safe distance.

Conversely, extinguishers with gaseous agents ( CO2, Halon, and Halon replacements FE-241 and FM-200), which react with the surrounding oxygen, aren't as effective in a cabin because the gases are often dissipated before the fire is extinguished.

The ABC units have the drawback of often ruining equipment, but because the priority is on safety and the overall effectiveness of the extinguishing agent, the American Boat & Yacht Council (ABYC) recommends that ABC multi-purpose extinguishers be used in most instances on boats under 65'. The ABC extinguishers not only reduces any confusion about what to use and where (saving time), but also covers the possibility that, for example, any Class B fire that spreads from the stove to the curtains (Class A) can be fought with the same extinguisher.









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</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE></TD></TR><TR><TD width=680 colSpan=3></TD></TR><TR><TD>U.S. Coast Guard Minimum Requirements:
  • All Fire Extinguishers must be Coast Guard Approved.
  • Fire extinguishers must be in serviceable condition.
  • All fire extinguishers must be READILY AVAILABLE for immediate use.
  • Boats less than 26 feet in length - At least one 2 pound hand-portable extinguisher (assuming no fixed-fire extinguishing system is installed). When an approved fire extinguishing system is installed in machinery spaces, no extinguisher is required. If construction of the boat does not permit the entrapment of explosive or flammable gases or vapors, no fire extinguisher is required. (Boat must be under 26 feet long and outboard powered)
  • Boats 26 feet to less than 40 feet in length - At least two 2 pound portables, OR at least one 2.5 pound extinguisher. When an approved fire extinguisher is installed, one less 2-pound extinguisher is required.
  • Boats 40 feet to not more than 65 feet in length - At least three 2 pound portables, or at least one 2 pound and one 2.5 pound extinguisher. When an approved fixed-fire extinguisher is installed, one less 2 pounder is required.
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<TABLE border=0 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=650 align=center><TBODY><TR><TD class=header height=40 vAlign=top></TD></TR><TR><TD>Fighting Fires







Fight a fire yourself if and only if:
  • It's small and confined to the immediate area where it started. Generally, if you don't get to it






  • within two minutes, you're too late.​
  • You have a way out and can fight with your back to the exit.
  • Your extinguisher is rated for the class of fire at hand. (If you bought ABC units, you don't have to





    worry about this.) Only Class A fires can be extinguished with water.​
  • You are confident that you can operate your extinguisher effectively: Aim the nozzle at the base of the fire.





    Hold the unit upright. Sweep from side to side at the base, or use a series of short blasts aimed at the base. Check for glowing or smoldering embers and repeat the procedure if "flashback" occurs.​
  • If you have the slightest doubt about whether you can contain the fire, don't even try. Your first concern is the






    safety of the people aboard. Notify someone immediately of your situation and location before the fire burns through the battery cables or forces you off the boat.
NOTE: Burning fiberglass is extremely hot and gives off noxious fumes.





If fiberglass is burning, get off the boat immediately.













Portable Fire Extinguisher Maintenance:

  • Inspect once a month, more often if exposed to weather.
  • Have the unit weighed annually to verify it's fully charged. Gauges fail often enough that they cannot always





  • be relied on. Twice a year, remove unit from bracket, turn upside down and shake to loosen any dry chemical compacted at the bottom.​






  • Recharge or replace after any use. Recharges run $15-25. Inexpensive units can be replaced for about


the same amount.​




Never check a unit by partially discharging it. Remaining pressure in canister can leak out over time.
Have a full maintenance check annually by a qualified technician; see the Yellow Pages under "Fire Extinguishers." A more economical method: weigh the unit your- self every year, and replace it every few years​









From the BoatingU.S.

Foundation




































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