baitcasting reels

Joined
Feb 24, 2009
Location
St Louis Mo
#1
the looser you set them the further they cast (and easier they backlash) Just a learning thing practice

Some reels cast farther than others and different lines cast differently as well,generally the lighter lines say 10lb cast father than say 15 lb.Different brands of lines act differently,find what you like and stick with it, till something better comes along.
As for the reels its not how many bearings or how much as a simple little qp 100 Quantum with only a bushing and no bearings cast about as far as any 150 dollar reel,they just dont last long,about 1 year of use.Narrow spools ,wide spools all act differently not only in cast but in retrieve.
It takes time but after awhile you will feel what you want when you go to buy,just as in a rod.
As earlier post stated loosen brake or bearing cap and or adjustments accordingly,at some point backlashes will occur,then reapply a small amount and presto at that magic spot.Spinning outfits are also used by many,not only in recreation but T fishing.
I even toss in a spin cast at times yup a zebco,for tossing minute offerings to crappie or even bass.(its my wifes and I keep it also in her boat-dont ask)
Having my roots in fly fishing I had to ask ,nothing to be ashamed about.

Try picking up some KVD Line and Lure conditioner.
Follow the directions and also spry some on your guides for longer casts.

Practice and patience is what worked for me. By the way by the time you get it you'll also be an expert at ppicking out those backlashes.
TIGHT LINES

There is a balancing act that has to be followed, distance is dependant on several things as mentioned above, but also keep in mind that distance is also a function of lure weight and aero dymanics. A lure, such as a 3/8 oz. spinner bait with a large blade will offer up some resistance sailing through the air, that same lure at 3/4 oz will go much further. So line weight (thickness), type of line, condition of reel bearings, amount of line on the spool, amount of brake applied to spool, rod type used (LT or Hvy) for cast ability and lure weight and shape all go hand in hand to get the maximum distance from every cast.

Who ever said fishing was easy................:D:D:D

I was going to say that will all change with different types and weights of lures.I know I am just realy gettin the hang of the baitcaster. i sure do like it.

What reel is it? Manufacturer? Every reel has it's own quirks. Give us a little more information and we can provide a few suggestions. One quick starter is to make sure you've rotated the reel 90 degrees so the line runs up and down not left to right.

also a good cleaning and lightly lubed will help one drop of oil on bearings and lightly grease gears and slides

Ok, kind of embarrassed to ask this but here it goes.
I have used baitcaster rods and reels only for 3 years now so kind of still learning them. I can use them with easy and no problems however I would like to gain a few more feet (10 to 15) on my casts, never had anyone teaching me how to adjust them so I figure it out on my own by reading about it. Right now I have the brake set at 7 or 8 (on those that go to a 10) and the way I do it is by holding the rod horizontally and let the bait drop to the floor, adjusting the small spool knob until the spool barely spins after bait hits floor, if I just lower the brake settings I got a really pay attention in order not to get backlashes.
Part of the problem is there is a limit to how far a particular weight lure can be cast! People expect a baitcast reel to be able to cast just about any lure they wish however far they want and that just isn't the case!

With a baitcast reel, the "pull" of the lure starts the spool turning, which pulls line off the reel, through the guides, allowing the lure to arc through its cast.

Lightweight lures react to wind resistance much more quickly than heavier lures because they have much less momentum. So on a baitcast reel, when you cast, it begins turning the spool at a fairly high rate of speed. The problem comes in when you're using a lighter lure or one with increased wind resistance, something like a buzzbait. These lures start out fast, but slow down quickly.

The problem is, the spool is still rotating at the high rate of speed, but the lure isn't pulling line out at the same rate. Thus, a backlash is born!

So, in order to cast a lure of the same weight, you'll have to increase the speed of the lure, or decrease the resistance on the reel spool. Doing either will increase the liklihood of a backlash.

So, what can a person do? Well, first of all, be content with the distance you're casting now, or refine your technique. In order to do that will require practice, Practice and more PRACTICE.

First of all, most people don't realize that the rod is doing the work of casting and are using too heavy of a rod to cast the lures they want. Find something with a fast or extra fast taper, but instead of using a heavy action rod, scale back to a medium/heavy (or whatever you're using, drop back one level in power).

Others will try to muscle the lure out there. That doesn't work as smoothness suffers and jerky movements will cause erratic reel spool speed which increases the liklihood of backlash.

Most people, when casting will pull their thumb too far from the spool while casting too. You only have to lift your thumb during the casting stroke just enough to release the spool, no more than 1/16th to 1/8th of an inch. If you do this, you'll actually feel the line beginning to backlash microseconds before the incident actually happens and can "feather" the spool to slow the rotation and let the line come off the spool unencumbered.

As you back off on your brakes adjustments, don't initially try for distance. Simply practice casting with consistency the goal with the lighter brake setting. As you cast several dozen times without backlash, then gradually apply more power to your cast to increase distance. Work on just a few feet at a time, don't try to get all fifteen feet at once.

So, practice and make all your movements smooth and consistent. Work on educating your thumb, and make sure your tackle is balanced and the right tool for the job!

Steve

also a good cleaning and lightly lubed will help one drop of oil on bearings and lightly grease gears and slides
Welcome to the boards duke and a great suggestion. Reels nowadays are presision tools and need to be kept clean. I have found that changing over to Ardents reel butter or Hot sauce lubes my reels not only last longer I can send a 1/8oz lure ino orbit. Most reels are lubed with standard lubes and will work but the newer synthetics are far superior.

Very nice information/description there "OutdoorFrontiers", i for one say thrown down the bait caster and get yourself a spincast or spinning reel, a lot less hassle..

This is all good info. When I started this tread was so I knew I was doing the initial set up right. most of my equipment is actually bottom line, I mean bottom, bottom line, upgrading slowly now.

Very nice information/description there "OutdoorFrontiers", i for one say thrown down the bait caster and get yourself a spincast or spinning reel, a lot less hassle..
But Terry, baitcasting tackle is simply sometimes the best tool for the job at hand. Yes, you can use a crescent wrench to drive a nail, but it isn't the right tool for the job, right?

The same thing goes with spinning and baitcasting tackle. Sometimes spinning tackle is the right selection, sometimes baitcasting is. A lot depends on how and where you're fishing as to which rod and reel you pick up.

Steve

heheh, yes i know - i have a nice baitcaster that has been used two times. It was set up for a light thumb by a buddy and he said the drag was also "reset", huh?

reset to what, "well he said, every plug/lure has its own weight and ya gata play with it".

nope thats why it was only used two times, heheh but yes i understand what your saying.
 
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