N
If you're the buck-saver that I am and keep a boat long enough to wear out the carpet, you'll be doing a re-rug job yourself. When you do, seriously consider installing an underlying layer of closed cell foam. Closed cell foam doesn't absorb water, unlike open-cell. A few lines of boat makers do this at the factory and I had heard it does wonders for you back when standing all day long. So, when I did the job on my rig this summer, I tried it out and was pretty impressed with the results the rest of the season. I have a lot of gravity working on me and my back usually starts bitchin' at me after the first 3 hours along with my feet. I can go all morning now and can go 'til 3-4 before I start feeling any wear and tear. Well worth the effort for little more than a $50 bill. 
I initially ordered a chunk large enough to do the fippin deck from a business that I finally located while researching on the internet. It was located in TN and advised that it would ship within 10 days. Well, that was not a lie because it took exactly 10 days for it to ship out. It was listed as a medium density (compression-wise). I was unsure when I ordered whether I would also do the rear deck (I don't fish back there) and wasn't certain this would be the right sort of stuff anyway. Once I decided it was the right stuff, it was pushing me to get more ordered and back to me in time, with vacation closing in (I had decided to be nice to my back-seaters).
I had been to a few supply places prior that were of no assistance and now decided to check at the new local Menard's for such stuff. Asked the first person I saw when I walked in and they took me right to it. It was in the carpet/pad section and was a premium type pad for people with kids that spill stuff I guess. It was a lower density than what I got mail-order but most of my back-seaters are 2/3 my size or less so figured (hoped) it would probably work out okay.
General tips for installation;
1) No real need to buy material for the lower deck - just the fishing decks.
2) 3/8" thickness is way to go.
3) Glue it down same as you would the carpet. Allow as much or a bit more time for glue to cure.
4) When cutting to size on deck area, cut slightly over-size a trim very little at a time. Even when making a paper template first, its safer to go over-size and trim very short/narrow portions at a time. Using a decent quality scissors works better for free-hand curves than a utility knife does. Using a fine point sharpie to mark intended trim area first is a good idea also.
5) Cut slightly over-size for lids. Use your wife's electric knife to cut to size after gluing and curing. You'll end up with a more consistent edge than having to saw with a utility knife. Run the knife right on and along the side of the lid.
6) If your lids seat edge-to-edge like mine do, you need to cut a 45-60 degree "bevel" in the pad on any edges that hinge towards each other. That includes any deck edge that a lid pivots towards. Otherwise you'll have a tough time opening the lids 'cause you'll be compressing the foam as the lid opens.
7) My lid latches are Perkos so I needed to replace the attaching screws with slightly longer one, and, flip over the retaining rings under the lids. Your latches may require a different approach.
8 ) My latches use about a 2-2 1/4" hole in the lids. After the pad and carpet are installed, I used a very narrow and serrated blade paring knife, again courtesy of my wife. Once poked thru the center of the lid hole, spiral outward to cut right along the edge of the lid hole and remove a perfect circle of pad and carpet.
9) Remounting electronics mounts require a slightly longer screw but not a lot. I compressed the pad under the mounts by at least 50%. After relocating the screw holes with a long finishing nail, I used a small phillips screwdriver with the end heated up with a propane torch to punch a clean hole thru the carpet and padding.
10) I used a similar diameter metal can with the end cut off (my seat posts are 3/4" pin type) which I heated with the propane torch to "cookie cut" the plug of carpet/padding where the pin/post sit thru.
I may have forgotten something here or not stated it well and will add if I recall anything important. Otherwise, ask questions and I'll try to give you an answer.
Since I ran a "plug" for Menard's, I'll provide equal credit for other components - not to say they are the only products or sources that provide adequate results....just what I found that worked for me:
A) closed cell foam, albeit a lighter density @ Menard's.
B) closed cell foam, medium density @ knoxfoam.com (Knoxville, TN)
C) fast-cure Gorilla Glue, for quick spot glue when necessary.
D) outdoor carpet adhesive same used for carpet, Henry #663. Clean-up with water before curing or mineral spirtis after. Commonly carried at Lowe's and various local hardware stores.
I initially ordered a chunk large enough to do the fippin deck from a business that I finally located while researching on the internet. It was located in TN and advised that it would ship within 10 days. Well, that was not a lie because it took exactly 10 days for it to ship out. It was listed as a medium density (compression-wise). I was unsure when I ordered whether I would also do the rear deck (I don't fish back there) and wasn't certain this would be the right sort of stuff anyway. Once I decided it was the right stuff, it was pushing me to get more ordered and back to me in time, with vacation closing in (I had decided to be nice to my back-seaters).
I had been to a few supply places prior that were of no assistance and now decided to check at the new local Menard's for such stuff. Asked the first person I saw when I walked in and they took me right to it. It was in the carpet/pad section and was a premium type pad for people with kids that spill stuff I guess. It was a lower density than what I got mail-order but most of my back-seaters are 2/3 my size or less so figured (hoped) it would probably work out okay.
General tips for installation;
1) No real need to buy material for the lower deck - just the fishing decks.
2) 3/8" thickness is way to go.
3) Glue it down same as you would the carpet. Allow as much or a bit more time for glue to cure.
4) When cutting to size on deck area, cut slightly over-size a trim very little at a time. Even when making a paper template first, its safer to go over-size and trim very short/narrow portions at a time. Using a decent quality scissors works better for free-hand curves than a utility knife does. Using a fine point sharpie to mark intended trim area first is a good idea also.
5) Cut slightly over-size for lids. Use your wife's electric knife
to cut to size after gluing and curing. You'll end up with a more consistent edge than having to saw with a utility knife. Run the knife right on and along the side of the lid.6) If your lids seat edge-to-edge like mine do, you need to cut a 45-60 degree "bevel" in the pad on any edges that hinge towards each other. That includes any deck edge that a lid pivots towards. Otherwise you'll have a tough time opening the lids 'cause you'll be compressing the foam as the lid opens.
7) My lid latches are Perkos so I needed to replace the attaching screws with slightly longer one, and, flip over the retaining rings under the lids. Your latches may require a different approach.
8 ) My latches use about a 2-2 1/4" hole in the lids. After the pad and carpet are installed, I used a very narrow and serrated blade paring knife, again courtesy of my wife
. Once poked thru the center of the lid hole, spiral outward to cut right along the edge of the lid hole and remove a perfect circle of pad and carpet.9) Remounting electronics mounts require a slightly longer screw but not a lot. I compressed the pad under the mounts by at least 50%. After relocating the screw holes with a long finishing nail, I used a small phillips screwdriver with the end heated up with a propane torch to punch a clean hole thru the carpet and padding.
10) I used a similar diameter metal can with the end cut off (my seat posts are 3/4" pin type) which I heated with the propane torch to "cookie cut" the plug of carpet/padding where the pin/post sit thru.
I may have forgotten something here or not stated it well and will add if I recall anything important. Otherwise, ask questions and I'll try to give you an answer.
Since I ran a "plug" for Menard's, I'll provide equal credit for other components - not to say they are the only products or sources that provide adequate results....just what I found that worked for me:
A) closed cell foam, albeit a lighter density @ Menard's.
B) closed cell foam, medium density @ knoxfoam.com (Knoxville, TN)
C) fast-cure Gorilla Glue, for quick spot glue when necessary.
D) outdoor carpet adhesive same used for carpet, Henry #663. Clean-up with water before curing or mineral spirtis after. Commonly carried at Lowe's and various local hardware stores.