- Joined
- Dec 10, 2009
- Location
- Guntersville
Ok ... here's one for the Johnson engine specialist.
I sent this as a PM to 1FASTLASER and he said to judge it by the plug color after it's been lake tested, being a 35 year motorcycle mechanic myself, his suggestion is right on par with how I work.
However, I'm still a little worried about how far I had to adjust the throttle cable after all was said and done, so if anyone wants to make suggestions ... please do so since it will be a few more days before I test it on the water.
..................................................................................................
Here's the PM below:
OK ... here's the delima.
I got the little BumbleBee with the Johnson 110 real cheap from the 2nd. owner. The original owner was his next door neighbor & I talked with him before buying the rig.
The boat had sat for 2 years so the 2nd. owner took the carbs off & to a dealer for rebuild kits, flushed the fuel tank, new plugs etc.
When he reinstalled the rebuilt carbs he got a bad case of tweak-itis & adjusted EVERY damn piece of timing & carb linkage way out of whack from factory specs !
When I got the rig home I started going over everything but the only manual I have is a very generic Clymer to go by & it ASSUMES that only small adjustments are to be made & doesn't cover this situation.
I got the shift linkage straightened out real quick but the timing & carb sync has been a ongoing struggle.
This Clymer manual bounces back & forth between so many different year models & HP engines & doesn't really give good specific info, meaning, you finish one step specific to the 87 model 110 & then it directs me to a SIMILAR set-up "several chapters back" that doesn't even look right in the pictures.
I'm not a complete dumbazz, been building motorcycle engines for 35 years & aint scared to work on something I ain't seen before.... but need decent info.
OK, I disconnected the throttle cable, pulled the plugs, found TDC on #1 & static timed the engine for WOT @ 24 degrees since it's supposed to be 28 degrees "in the water". On iboats forum I read several post stating it needed to be set @ -4 degrees because the electronics would add the 4 degrees when running.
Then I synched the carbs to the throttle cam alignment mark. All of this took MAJOR adjustments from where the PO had it ... & the adjustments don't look like what few stock pictures I could find online or in the manual that shows the linkage but it's not like I can see the pics good enough to count the threads, match the set-up and time it from there.
What bothers me most about it is I can plainly see where I had to adjust the throttle cable way into new territory to make it sync up & it's obvious that the cable has NEVER been in this position before... you know what I mean, the threads are now shiny that were once covered up, had to move it dang near 3/4" !!!
So bottom line, as long as I have the WOT timing set where it is now ... do YOU think I'll be safe to run it on the water "without burning a piston" ?
On the hose this engine cranks right up & sounds nice & crisp now, barely would run before so it has improved ... just don't want to ruin it.
I sent this as a PM to 1FASTLASER and he said to judge it by the plug color after it's been lake tested, being a 35 year motorcycle mechanic myself, his suggestion is right on par with how I work.
However, I'm still a little worried about how far I had to adjust the throttle cable after all was said and done, so if anyone wants to make suggestions ... please do so since it will be a few more days before I test it on the water.
..................................................................................................
Here's the PM below:
OK ... here's the delima.
I got the little BumbleBee with the Johnson 110 real cheap from the 2nd. owner. The original owner was his next door neighbor & I talked with him before buying the rig.
The boat had sat for 2 years so the 2nd. owner took the carbs off & to a dealer for rebuild kits, flushed the fuel tank, new plugs etc.
When he reinstalled the rebuilt carbs he got a bad case of tweak-itis & adjusted EVERY damn piece of timing & carb linkage way out of whack from factory specs !
When I got the rig home I started going over everything but the only manual I have is a very generic Clymer to go by & it ASSUMES that only small adjustments are to be made & doesn't cover this situation.
I got the shift linkage straightened out real quick but the timing & carb sync has been a ongoing struggle.
This Clymer manual bounces back & forth between so many different year models & HP engines & doesn't really give good specific info, meaning, you finish one step specific to the 87 model 110 & then it directs me to a SIMILAR set-up "several chapters back" that doesn't even look right in the pictures.
I'm not a complete dumbazz, been building motorcycle engines for 35 years & aint scared to work on something I ain't seen before.... but need decent info.
OK, I disconnected the throttle cable, pulled the plugs, found TDC on #1 & static timed the engine for WOT @ 24 degrees since it's supposed to be 28 degrees "in the water". On iboats forum I read several post stating it needed to be set @ -4 degrees because the electronics would add the 4 degrees when running.
Then I synched the carbs to the throttle cam alignment mark. All of this took MAJOR adjustments from where the PO had it ... & the adjustments don't look like what few stock pictures I could find online or in the manual that shows the linkage but it's not like I can see the pics good enough to count the threads, match the set-up and time it from there.
What bothers me most about it is I can plainly see where I had to adjust the throttle cable way into new territory to make it sync up & it's obvious that the cable has NEVER been in this position before... you know what I mean, the threads are now shiny that were once covered up, had to move it dang near 3/4" !!!
So bottom line, as long as I have the WOT timing set where it is now ... do YOU think I'll be safe to run it on the water "without burning a piston" ?
On the hose this engine cranks right up & sounds nice & crisp now, barely would run before so it has improved ... just don't want to ruin it.